like with my Epiphone - which tailpiece has these little metal bits that stop the tail piece from falling during a string change, the Tone Pros also stop that issue.Īnyone tried other varieties? The TonePros are 4x the money and appear to have the same flaw as the first type I tried - along with difficult adjustment via wrench under the bridge an barely above your finish.It seems that more and more of us here on S-T have come to appreciate the Gibson/Epiphone 'Junior' type guitars, and their various sisters and brothers with P90 PUPS and, quite often, the classic, simple, "Lightning Bar' wrap-around bridge. I think the problem he is experiencing is when top wrapping on some guitars (as was my experience hence going for tone-pros locking studs on a 54 replica) was the bar would raise up at the back, I tossed up whether to find better fitting studs when I stumbled on the Tone-Pros, and guys on this forums luthier section said why not. and then they plug it in and discuss sustain with said effects. Bit like how some people say " listen to how acoustic sounding my electric solid body guitar is" - and then they proceed to strum it as hard as they can. I dont think we'll ever equate these with solid answers.Įvery time I watch a video where someone says "listen to the sustain" I can hear they have effects on and are trying to MAKE it sustain more using electronics. Whether anchoring them to the guitar in such a way increases sustain. like with my Epiphone - which tailpiece has these little metal bits that stop the tail piece from falling during a string change, the Tone Pros also stop that issue. Other choices?Ĭlick to expand.I think the problem he is experiencing is when top wrapping on some guitars (as was my experience hence going for tone-pros locking studs on a 54 replica) was the bar would raise up at the back, I tossed up whether to find better fitting studs when I stumbled on the Tone-Pros, and guys on this forums luthier section said why not. But that ship has sailed on this guitar.Īnyone tried other varieties? The TonePros are 4x the money and appear to have the same flaw as the first type I tried - along with difficult adjustment via wrench under the bridge an barely above your finish. No fatigue, limited final adjustment when you (loosen strings) then lock down nut.Much better design and a winner aside from the fact that they don't look vintage. You can leave the top clamping screw just an teensy bit loose and still adjust the studs. The lockdown is again down with an allen but the inner screw simply clamps the top down tight against the bridge. You adjust height using the usual screwdriver slot at the top and both halves turn.
The top "nut" is cammed to the lower stud (upper stud in photo). The second and current pair I tried are the Kaish studs, below. Also, the material doesn't appear to be very good steel.
I suspect it had already yielded previously and fatigued. This "happened" while tightening the top down. I do a lot of automotive work and I'm very torque conscious. So rinse and repeat - and then break after a couple dozen adjustments due to the binding.Īnd no, I didn't "gorilla torque" them. Also, with the nut loose (required), the adjustment is a rough guess. Thin threaded "steel" section stresses from this, yields, fatigues, and eventually breaks. Unfortunately nut rebinds as you turn as it can/will turn too with the stud. When done, loosen strings, final tighten nut, final check. Loosen nut, adjust post/bridge height with allen, retighten nut.
I chose these as they had a vintage/stock looking appearance. The first pair I tried were the type below. I tried two of the popularly available (I did this on inexpensive guitars, so inexpensive was the direction :- ). Solution: Locking studs! I suspect these also increase sustain. Issue: Wraparound bridges fit loosely on the bridge studs. Interested in other folks experience with locking studs of other types in terms of utility, ease of use, etc.īackground: Had a couple guitars with one-piece wrap-arounds.
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